Louisiana History Like Never Before!

The Louisiana Endowment for the Humanities has launched a new website for educators, students, history buffs, and those who want to know more about the Bayou State's unique culture and history. KnowLA has been three years in the making and will add more and more entries as the site develops. The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival and Foundation has contributed in helping secure full length songs by artists such as Louis Armstrong, Professor Longhair, Huddie "Ledbelly" Ledbetter, Jelly Roll Morton and more.

Exploring Carnton Plantation

The apple does not fall far from the tree; and as I have discovered recently, it holds just as true in the past as it does today. It is not such an odd occurrence for we Southerners to find our kin sprinkled anywhere from Texas to Virginia, so I did not find myself perplexed when my recent trip to the historic town of Franklin, Tennessee gave me a history lesson about two courageous women from south Louisiana who became heroines of the War Between the States.

After reading Robert Hicks’ book Widow of the South last year and learning the spellbinding history of the Carnton Plantation and adjoining Confederate cemetery in Franklin, Tennessee, I knew that I just had to take a road trip to see them in person. As it turns out, Franklin is just a short distance away from my hometown in north Alabama. So with family members in tow, I curiously began my journey to this sleepy little town just south of Nashville, where unbeknownst to me, was where the bloodiest battle of the Civil War occurred.

Carnton Plantation is a modest Antebellum home that one might find in an array of towns across the Deep South. It is a white, two story house with just shy of a dozen squared columns reaching up from the foundations like outstretched fingers. The white picket fence now placed in the yard makes the property look clean and inviting to the plethora of tourists who currently visit due to the popularity of Hicks’ bestselling novel.

In 1847, Colonel John McGavock and his young wife Carrie Winder called Carnton Plantation home. Carrie, as it turns out, had grown up on what was the largest sugar plantation in Terrebonne Parish, Louisiana. She brought with her to Tennessee a personal servant by the name of Mariah, who became her friend and confidant for many years to come and no doubt a reminder of Ducros Plantation, the home that she had left behind.

When the Civil War showed up on the McGavock’s doorstep, Carrie, although reluctantly, allowed her home to be used as a make-shift hospital. Deep red blood stains can still be found in almost every room of the house. The dining room table was transformed into an operating table and the children’s wooden bedroom floor now bears the bloody outline of a surgeon’s weary feet. Carrie assisted the wounded in any way possible; turning linens and clothing into tourniquets, serving food and drink, and even holding frequent vigil at the bedside of the dying.

Once the troops had released their grip on Franklin, nothing was left but carnage. Unhappy with mass and unidentified burials, the McGavocks insisted on the creation of a Confederate cemetery on their own property, where Carrie spent the rest of her life cataloguing, contacting relatives, and even pulling weeds from the graves of almost 1,500 soldiers. A journal written in Carrie’s own hand, identifying as many as 1,000 soldiers, is on display for the public to see inside the main house.

On the day that I strolled the lengths of the Confederate Cemetery at Carnton, I walked through row after row of square, uniform markers and eventually found the section where 18 soldiers from Louisiana were interred. I then began to wonder about the history of Carrie’s family back in the Pelican State.

On La. Hwy 24, less than a mile from Schriever in Terrebonne Parish, sits Ducros Plantation, a box-like stately home that is, unfortunate for amateur historians, not open to the public. It was built long before the war to mimic Andrew Jackson’s “Hermitage” in Nashville, Tennessee. In its day, Colonel Van Winder used his 3,300 acre property for the production of sugar cane, which in turn, became the largest in Terrebonne Parish. Just as her daughter Carrie, Mrs. Martha Winder watched as her husband and sons marched off to war. She too opened up her home to Confederate occupation and aided the physicians as her home became a military hospital.

Legend has it that as the battle between the north and south came to a close, Mrs. Winder held a lavish picnic in the gardens surrounding her house to welcome home many of the men returning from battle. It was then that she found out about the death of her youngest son, yet continued to host the party as if she had not been suddenly filled with grief.

Although I have yet to see Ducros Plantation for myself, at least from outside the chain link fence surrounding the property, I have been fascinated to learn that the story told in The Widow of the South doesn’t just stop in Franklin, but continues as mother and daughter lead somewhat parallel lives, proving that no matter the distance, we are all somehow connected. This article written by Carey Weeks was originally published in Louisiana Road Trips magazine.

Shreveport in Brief: Why Should You Visit?

Shreveport is an interesting city to live in and visit. Bordering the states of Texas and Arkansas, it has taken on many of the traits of three areas. I have been a resident of Shreveport for approximately five years and would encourage people to come and take in Louisiana’s other side.

Shreveport has the luxuries of a big city; however it functions as a close community. There are many organizations, charities, and clubs that accept you with open arms. One of its big city functions is the entertainment. Superstars of all calibers come to Shreveport to perform and shoot movies, so it is likely that while living here you can catch a glimpse of a celebrity in the supermarket at least once.

My favorite place in Shreveport is the Municipal Memorial Auditorium. It was once home to the radio program the Louisiana Hayride, where the likes of Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Hank Williams, and many more got their professional starts. Its Art Deco architecture is completely unique to Louisiana and the intricacy of its building is extraordinary. I have, off and on, for the past five years, helped give historic and haunted tours of the building and it truly has something for everyone.

My friends and I frequent the Robinson Film Center in downtown Shreveport. It is a classy, modern meets vintage movie theater that shows new independent films as well as classics. Films range from To Kill A Mockingbird, Dirty Dancing, A Streetcar Named Desire, to The Road and changes weekly. It holds various contests and festivals that bring in crowds from all walks of life.

Especially during crawfish season, my family enjoys relaxing or celebrating at the restaurant/bar The Blind Tiger just steps from the Texas Street Bridge in downtown Shreveport. It is one of the oldest buildings left in the downtown area and was once a popular speak-easy during Prohibition. It’s original wooden floors and dark wooden interior provides a warm, comfortable atmosphere for casual dining. The wait staff has had the opportunity to watch my daughter grow from a baby to a little girl and welcome us with happy smiles each time we walk through the door. We enjoy sharing large piles of fried crawfish tails, warming up with cups full of spicy crawfish etouffee, and crunching on ears of fried corn on the cob. For a juicy Cajun steak, The Blind Tiger is hard to beat.

Mardi Gras season is a special time in Louisiana and Shreveport is not without its celebrations. The Highland Mardi Gras Parade is one of the more family-oriented parades in town but still has the pomp and circumstance of a large parade. The floats are always fun to watch as they slowly move through the historic Highland neighborhood and the area children scramble to catch handfuls of sparkly beads. My husband always waits with anticipation for the Krewe of BBQ to roll by so that he can catch a hot dog or barbecue sandwich wrapped in warm foil. We usually catch just enough throws to weigh us down without feeling overwhelmed. Seeing that it rolls through during the day, it is a safe way for families to enjoy the Mardi Gras festivities.

The Municipal Memorial Auditorium is located at 705 Elvis Presley Ave. in downtown Shreveport. Guided tours are available on Saturdays from 11:00am-3:00pm. Admission is $5 for adults and $3 for children 12 and under. Don’t forget to check out the historic Oakland Cemetery just across the street! The Robinson Film Center is located at 617 Texas Street in downtown Shreveport and is open on daily. Find out which movies are being shown by visiting their website. The Blind Tiger is at 120 Texas Street in downtown Shreveport and is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Visit them online. Information about the Krewe of Highland parade can be found at the Krewe's website.

Meat Pies Along the Cane River

If you have ever seen the 1989 film Steel Magnolias starring Julia Roberts and Sally Field, you have already been introduced to the quaint and welcoming town of Natchitoches, Louisiana. My first memories of this enchanting hamlet conjure up scenes of famous meat pies and giant oak trees. As a small child, my mother and I accompanied my grandfather to Natchitoches for the NSU homecoming celebration. Homecoming was my grandfather’s favorite time of the year, having been a Demon football captain in the 30s and fittingly nicknamed “Bama” due to his having hitchhiked from north Alabama to Natchitoches in order to accept a football scholarship.

Prior to the ballgame homecoming Saturday, we attended an elaborate garden party hosted by one of my grandfather’s classmates. As our car pulled up to the sizable antebellum house surrounded by enormous oak and pecan trees, I was in complete awe as I gawked at what is often considered the epitome of Southern culture. I remember the crunch of pecan shells under my patent shoes as I walked along the sidewalk toward the house. Guests were gussied up in their finest attire, Bloody Marys in hand, as attendants wound their way through the crowd carrying linen-lined baskets filled with savory meat pies. Unfortunately, having been so young, I do not remember much else about the party. However, being one of my first introductions to Louisiana culture, I am confident that it will remain in my memories for years to come.

After the soiree in Natchitoches, I remember my mother trying her hand at making meat pies from scratch. Over the years she recreated this Louisiana delicacy many times, most often during the summer months. I can still see her using a dinner fork to crimp the edges of the little pastries. She and I would sit at the kitchen table with a large plate of meat pies between us, a bowl of mustard sitting close by for dipping.

I now live in Shreveport, Louisiana and look forward to the day trips that my own family occasionally takes to Natchitoches. Front Street, resembling a calmer version of New Orleans’ French Quarter, boasts a wide variety of specialty shops and restaurants. I usually park my car alongside the sidewalk in front of the Book Messenger, a little nook that comes complete with local books and fluffy felines that tend the cash register and take afternoon siestas in the front display windows. Next door is the gift shop Les Saisons that carries a wide variety of chocolates and pecan pralines. As for local fare, my husband and I frequently visit The Landing to feast on blackened alligator smothered in hollandaise sauce. However, you can’t go wrong with the sandwiches at Papa’s Bar & Grill and the meat pies at the acclaimed Lasyone’s Meat Pie Kitchen & Restaurant.

Natchitoches has quite a few characteristics that make it stand out from most Southern small towns. It’s most notable claim to fame is its being hallmarked as the oldest settlement in the Louisiana Purchase. An abundance of Creole plantations, houses on the National Register of Historic Places, and museums dedicated to Native American and French culture make Natchitoches an exciting place to visit and a comfortable place to call home. And if this weren’t enough, thousands of twinkling lights and fireworks illuminate the sky during the annual Festival of Lights in December. Got a craving for meat pies? Visit the Meat Pie Festival September 16-17, 2011 and get your fix of crawfish, fried alligator on a stick, and those scrumptious meat pies.

For more information on the city of Natchitoches, Louisiana and its many attractions, visit www.historicnatchitoches.com. To get the official Natchitoches Meat Pie Recipe and history, as well as learn more about the Meat Pie Festival, visit www.meatpiefestival.com.

This article was originally published in the 2008 Louisiana Road Trips Magazine.